There and Back Again

本庄〜またね！

Well, I'm home now! That is to say I'm back in Seattle, Washington -- town of the needle that reaches SPACE and the 1962 transportation gift to mankind: the Monorail (you're welcome, world). I will no doubt face new adventures in this strange yet familiar land... such as unemployment, making friends, and reminding myself not to bow to Asian people I see on the street. This will take time.

The last few days in Honjo were spent huddling over my toilet and, in a way, letting my feelings out. Anxiety hit my stomach with a wave of vengeance such as the world had never seen. I spent my last Saturday night in Japan with a high fever, body aches, and nausea while Kate and Natanya , Champions of wellness and friendship, spoon-fed me ginger ale as we watched "Walk Hard" (which certainly didn't help my bout of illness).

I continued going to work, usually just for a few hours to talk to people, feel like the butterflies in my stomach were stabbing each other for drug-money with ice picks, and rushing home to finish packing and cleaning. On my last weekend, besides feeling ill, I shipped my two enormous suitcases to the airport via 空港サービス (airport service). Thank God for Japan -- my suitcases weighed 110 lbs together and there was no way I could have handled them by myself on the trains to the airport without the guardian angels of Kuroneko Yamato special delivery service. I also completed and handed out all of my gift bags, which were comprised of folded paper cranes and Hershey kisses thrown into adorably patterned plastic bags. I managed to gift these to 70 people -- おつかれさまでした!

On Sunday I felt well enough to drive down to Mineyama to have dinner with Megan, Kate, Eric and Yumi at Honeycomb and to ship my iMac desktop computer to the US via express delivery service. However, the delivery people, who usually deliver within Japan, wanted to charge me about $600 for their services, which I declined. I decided instead to use the FedEx/Kinko's in Kyoto city and save about $350 in doing so. Still, it meant I had another 25lb box to schlep down to Kyoto on my final day in Japan, which would not be fun.

Monday was a particularly sad day for me as I said goodbye to all four of my schools, my neighbours, and my entire Board of Education. I gave a speech, managed not to choke up, and left the building for the last time with Nishihara-san (my supervisor for two years who has done everything for me). We said some teary goodbyes and had a nice big hug and a final photo together. I sure will miss that lady.

I then sobbed, "DON'T FORGET ME INE~" while driving away from Ine and its beautiful boathouses and bay and continued my way South to Miyazu. I would spend the night at Yumi's family's house in hopes of finding comfort my last night with a familiar family. The Okkuda family showed me a great time! We watched Japanese game shows on TV while eating delicious steak and shrimp -- yum! Yumi's crazy mother then insisted that I take one of her "antique" vases as Japanese omiyage... though I feel that I was snookered into taking something she didn't really want anymore. Still, it's the thought. I then took a nice hot bath and curled up on a futon and watched cartoons with Yumi until we both fell asleep.

The following morning was another sad, teary, Japanese goodbye. The worst of all because it was a goodbye to YUMI. I can't imagine what my life would have been without her, but it would have been bleak and without dental appointments for certain. In any case it was completely awful and afterward she went to work and I drove to my car lease company to drop off dear Shadowfax the Car. The company owner was kind enough to drive me, my carry-on luggage, and my ridiculously large iMac computer to Mineyama station to meet Kate and her entourage of merry high school teachers for one last Tango goodbye.

A photo of Kate and Natanya at the Mineyama post office, sending their boxes home.

Kate and I hopped the train to Kyoto City, meeting up with Natanya along the way. It was nice to have a relaxing train ride before our final goodbye to Kate, who has gone back to Minnesota since. Natanya and I then wandered over to the FedEx/Kinko's and were successful in sending home my desktop computer. My arms were very thankful to relieve themselves of the bulky burden (ouch!). We then grabbed lunch at a really strange cafe -- the servers were all attractive young men and the patrons were nearly all middle-aged Japanese women. It was a bit eerie, but they served sparkling wine, so who were we to question their practices?

Natanya and I then returned to Kyoto station to seek out cheap and adorable souvenirs from Japan for our friends and family. I bought a lot of small handkerchief type presents as they were the only items I was able to squeeze into my ridiculous luggage. Who doesn't need a handkerchief, right? ...right?

The best part of the day was meeting Danielle and Lauren for ramen and beer at Kyoto station -- I hadn't seen Danielle in months and we talked more about her wedding next March in Colorado and about the house that she and her fiancé are having built. It's so exciting to hear about these things and it's nice to know that Danielle will continue living her life in Osaka and that I'll be able to stay in contact with her, and thus stay in contact with Japan.

Lauren, Natanya and I went to stay at Lauren's apartment for the night. We studied vocabulary in Lauren's GRE book (Avert your eyes, you captious braggart!) and hunkered down for the night watching some of Grey's Anatomy (THERE'S A BOMB IN THE PATIENT! CODE BLACK! CODE BLACK!) It was my last night in Japan, but I managed to catch a few hours of sleep anyway.

The next several hours were uneventful. I went to the airport, picked up my enormous suitcases, managed to get them on the flight without paying extra, ended up in Seoul, Korea for five boring hours, hopped another flight to Seattle where I sat next to an elderly Korean man with the CONSUMPTION, and ended up in Zaydeh's condo on Alaskan Way. Yes, I realise that's all one sentence, but it feels like I did the whole thing in one big breath.

So now it's over (the blog and the flight and all that). I'm pleased and punch to be back in a familiar yet exciting area and I'm looking forward to what's happening next. So far, I've been helping Zaydeh look through Bubbeh's old things. Not that the things are necessarily old, but I suppose one starts calling things 'old' when somebody passes away. I'm not sure I agree with it. Let's just say, we're going through Bubbeh's "effects". That woman kept 5 can-openers and 5 sets of silverware. Don't even get me started on the margarita mug shaped like a cactus or the entire cabinet of paper plates. This is going to be fun.

So until I decide on what to call the next blog, このブロッグを読んでくれてありがとうございました。Thanks for reading my blog. It was fun to write, fun to look back on -- and I hope it was fun to read.

Rachel

Penultimate

These two weeks have been very busy and I've had to say goodbye to a lot of things that have been constants in my life for two years now. To name a few; schools, calligraphy, Ian and Kirby.
I've visited both of my junior high schools and elementary schools and read speeches that skim the surface of how I feel, but in Japanese that I can manage (which matters to me!) I received colourful cards from all of my schools, some with photographs, and all of them with notes from the students. It was a really perfect gift for me. The elementary schools sang me songs and the junior high schoolers read English speeches, which I was surprisingly touched by hearing. It's hard not to remember what those students looked like two years ago when they were all much smaller and less brave.

Classes have gone on summer holiday, and now all there's left to do is wait out the week, pack up the rest of the house, and go to Seattle.

Ine JHS couldn't find a free day to go out to dinner with me, so they threw me a farewell lunch on the last day of school. We gathered in the Principal's office and toasted with cups of tea and bentos. Then the staff sang me a surprise English song -- oddly, Edelweiss. Broom and glow forever.


On Friday I had a farewell party with the staff from the Board of Education (9 of us in all). We went out to a pretty izakaya in Nodagawa with a koi pond in the back and suggestively-shaped pudding on the menu (which we ordered, naturally). Mrs. Nishihara, my supervisor for two years, gave a short speech, followed by a slightly less short speech by the Head of the BOE. They gave me a beautiful bouquet of flowers, a card with the Japanese hina-sama (dolls) on it, and a mug made by Ine's own potter, Mrs. Kura. The handle is a fish! Afterward there was drinking and story-telling and we went home considerably early since it was an exhausting week.

The following morning, I drove with Kate and Natanya down to Kyoto City to take Kirby to the ferret adoption agency in Nagoya. Natanya, champion of friendship and love, came with me for moral support. We took the shinkansen to Nagoya station and met up with a unique-looking Japanese woman, Ms. Ishihara. She took Kirby and all of his documents and gave me a BIG hug and left with him. As I watched her carrying him away, I burst into tears. I think that all the stress from leaving plus saying goodbye to so many people plus losing my pet, the only thing that's really kept me from going insane in my house, was more than I could bear at that moment.

However, I had planned for this outburst of emotion and Natanya and I immediately changed into party dresses for the long, local train ride back. We briefly explored the area around Nagoya station and were disappointed but how unexciting the post office was. We did however find a lot of cheap wine in the department store basement. By the time we arrived at Kyoto station in the afternoon, we were delightfully smashed. This helped me feel less empty since I was coming back without Kirby's travel cage.

We met Ian and Kate at Nijo station and went for a quick dinner at a ramen shop near the movie theatre. Then, after meeting up with Lauren, we went to see Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, which received mixed reviews from the group. I personally enjoyed it. Following this, I fell into a sleepy/sad stupour and we wandered over to a nearby bar for drinks and french fries until about 1am, by which time we went to bed in various locations.

The next morning I took a bus to meet Lauren at the Kyoto Station Starbucks to hang out for a bit and say goodbye. We talked about how it's hard for things to feel as definite as "I'll never see this person again" because of facebook and twitter and skype and g-chat. That helped us both feel better, I think.



After a hearty Hawaiian hug, I took off for Kameokoa to say goodbye to Laurel and eat donuts at Mister Donut! It was really nice to see her again, and I'm pleased that she'll be taking over the Ganbatte Times newsletter for me as well. Rachel2, Natanya, Ian and Kate then showed up in Kameoka and we drove up to Ine together after saying goodbye to Laurel.

The last hurrah in Ine was exactly what I needed so as not to feel awful about coming home to an empty, ferret-less house. Instead, the lot of us cooked up a curry and played dominoes until the wee hours. Cake was thrown, wine was spilled, and allergies were developed -- a perfect evening.

Ian would soon teach Kate how to throw a punch. Kate would soon take a Benadryl and pass out.

The next day after a leisurely breakfast we all walked over to the Tsutsukawa Buddha statue and followed giant crayfish down the gutters. We also spotted a lot of tiny frogs (some with tails still) sitting on the hydrangea bushes!

Can you find the frog?

After the walk it was time to say goodbye, so I gave Rachel2 and Ian some big hugs, we took photos, and off they went. I'm not sure when I'll see them next, but I feel optimistic it will be sooner than later.

Today I went to my last shuji (calligraphy) class with Mrs. Kamitsuji and the junior high school students. When my daily calligraphy was done, Kamitsuji-sensei presented me with some binders of all the work I've done in 2 years and a letter from her. I was really touched, and saying goodbye to her and that class and that room is something that I'm still having trouble with. That seems more forever than saying goodbye to JETs. On my way out, some of my elementary school students gave me some plums from their garden and I drove home feeling overwhelmed with happiness.

Yep, that's right -- I feel happy, not sad. I can easily say that some of the worst days of my life have been in Japan. And working on the JET Programme hasn't exactly been a dream job or a career path for me... but I feel so fortunate that I got to live here for two years that I can't help but feel happy instead of sad. I learned Japanese calligraphy, I've watched the rice in its circle of life, I've seen frogs and snakes and eagles and boar and tanuki. I've become conversational at a language I never really set out to learn. I've fallen in love with teaching. Really, I've fallen in love with life. I think Ine will always be the place where I learned how to be a person, and I learned how to be accountable for things other than myself. There's no amount of bad days that can reverse that experience, and for that I will be eternally grateful.

This blog will soon draw to a close, but it will always be here to remind me of all the memories I've had these two years. There's just not enough room in my heart and in my head to keep it all inside, so I'm glad that I've written it down where it can't be erased.

So, in this last week of living in Japan and living in Ine specifically, I'm going to take the good. I'm not going to accept the sadness, but I'm going to hold onto the profound gratitude that I've been feeling ever since it sank in that I'm going onto a different kind of future. So in the end, I really think it's going to be OK.

Dust in the Wind, the Karaoke Story

Weather Crummy; Disappointed Females Trek to City

This weekend, due to crummy Tango weather and family duties, Natanya, Kate and I decided to take a literal rain check on our hike. Instead, Natanya and I drove down to Kameoka so we could head into Kyoto and play!

The morning started as crummy as the weather. I thought the elementary school next door told me that I could bring my recyclable cardboard (or cardboard boxes I've had since July 2007...) to the school between 7:30 and 10:30. So I showed up around 10 and one of the teachers/caretakers was there and he said, "Haha, they've gone home already." THANKS. So, stuck with cardboard, I said farewell to Kirby and drove South to Kaya. Natanya had plenty of cardboard waste too, so we placed it surreptitiously in the parking lot of a convenience store. Apologies to the 7-11 employees on Rt. 176.

Once in Kameoka, we snagged a free spot at the station and walked over to Laurel's apartment to meet her new friend, Kuma. I never knew rabbits had so much personality! This little boy or girl (we just don't know how to find out) thumped his feet when vexed, nibbled at our socks, and let us cuddle him as only a kind and thoughtful rabbit might. Meanwhile Margaret was wandering around muttering something about boys and dates... but... bunny... d'awwwwwwww.

Continuing on our day of planned fun-things, we took the train into Nijo to do some quickie purikura at the arcade and to see Star Trek with Greg, Ian, and Masahiro. Hooray for student prices and employees who believe that we are foreign exchange students! I don't think I'll be able to get away with that for too much longer... they might start to wonder once I'm 30.

Star Trek was vastly entertaining and the beers we all got helped our viewing pleasure go to where no man has gone before. Or something witty.

After that, people wanted food so we ate some kaiten sushi nearby, but this sadly cut the night short as people had last trains to worry about. So, all but me, Ian and Natanya went on in search of karaoke and more beer. We met up with Lauren, who changed her mind and went home.

Ian, Natanya and I ended up doing karaoke at two locations due to the waiting list at the first place. We are superstars, no lie. Natanya and Ian sang a 35 minute ballad by Bob Dylan while I weighed the options of eating my pastries now, or later. I chose later, and then tried to sing Kate Bush. Oof.

Somehow we ended up at Radio Clash around 2am and chatted, made paper cranes, and I texted everyone I knew that, simply, "I LOVE YOU." This was well received, and it's all true!

Around 3am, we poured ourselves into Ian's apartment and slept until the voices of children woke us up at 8am.

I have no explanation for this, other than it exists and I saw it.

So! Karaoke, sushi, movie, friends, and bunny all add up to one final note: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.

Driving home was relaxed this afternoon... Natanya and I listened to podcasts and sipped water and watched the scenery turn from sunny to cloudy to drizzly. We were home! When I got back to my apartment complex, I had to wait a bit longer to get inside because three monkeys were playing in front of my doorstep! Blagh! Deftly (and after 15 minutes) I trundled my car slowly up the path, chasing them back into the jungle. As I carried my groceries inside, they glared at me from trees. Eep.

Journey to the North : Day 4

Lauren and I find an airport transportation autobus and climb aboard for the 90 minute journey to Chitose Airport. The weather is fine and we have no troubles finding a vessel to take us back to Kansai on the Main Island of the Japans. Exhausted from our travels, we do not speak much on the trip back. Instead we reflect on the many wonders seen over the past three days; strange beasts, sculptures in the snow, and a candlelit canal.

On our arrival to Kyoto Locomotive Station, we meet our companion, Ian. Ian helps us find proper Western food; burgers! Lauren is under the spell of the East and continues her descent into madness by eating okonomiyaki while Ian and I feast on meat, bread and too much sauce. Full and gay, I leave my comrades and find a locomotive North to my vehicle. I sleep on the ride up, full of mirth and memory.

Journey to the North : Day 3

February 10, 2009
Sapporo, Hokkaido Japan


Lauren and I slept away the morning hours after our long, eventful days previous. Finally rising from our soft, warm bed, we dress and go out into the Susukino area to find luncheon with a friend of Lauren’s – Corey (yet another out-of-place Hawaiian). We decided on râmen, a special delicacy noodle dish of the area. Slurping down hot noodles in miso broth with pork and a dash of spring onions seems just the way to enjoy the cold climate and continuous snowfall.

The Sapporo City Hall

Lauren and Corey head out to the beer distillery while I wander around Sapporo City, admiring the architecture. Soon after, I decide to visit a small artisan area known as Otaru to the North. I find a locomotive to take me there and stare in awe as, ever so unexpectedly, the sea appears. The train winds northward up the snowy coast, and passed the icy waters of what must be the North Sea. Not long after, we arrive at Minami Otaru, the southern patch of the town. I depart here, not knowing where exactly I’d like to go.

After walking for some time along the snowy sidewalks and slippery streets, I find a bustling intersection. A steam-powered clock stands in the middle of the area and historic plaques give tourists information about the town itself. I see a newly wed couple, not even dressed in their winterwear, taking photographs in front of a large, snow cake (complete with painted strawberries on top). It is quite beautiful and I manage to take a photo. I continue my stroll along the chocolate shops, toy stores and glass blowers. Finally the sun sets and I reach the Otaru Canal, which is lit up with candles. Here, I believe photographs will aid me with description, as my words could not express the beauty of this spectacle.

Frozen through, I decided to head back to the Locomotive Station in the City Centre. I meet Lauren and we sip coffee, warming ourselves from the inside. Lauren suggests we meet her friends Geetika and Naoko once more for a crab supper. I happily agree and we meet them at a cosy seafood restaurant high up in a restaurant structure. We feast for the next two hours upon fresh Northern Crabmeat and toast to our success. Afterward, I retire early to pack up my belongings and get a night’s rest before the journey back to Kansai. Lauren does not join me until the wee hours of dawn.


I dream of worrisome unpleasant things –causing me constant anxiety. A friend’s botched surgery leads to her sudden death. Most unpleasant. I am inconsolable for hours the next day.

Journey to the North : Day 2

February 9, 2009

Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan

Asahiyama Zoo, Asahigawa, Hokkaido, Japan

Our first full day in the Nörth begins with an early morning breakfast in the underground sector of the accommodations. The hotel has provided us with the necessities: a spread of strange, eastern foods – most of it pickled or from the sea. Lauren (pictured with her explorer game face) partakes, her hair shining with the gleam of the Orient. At last I spot some Western Delicacies: eggs, toast and instant coffee. We snack on provisions while waiting for Kristin and Jian-wen to find us in the basement corridor.

Kristin and Jian-wen are prepared and ready to face the early morning chills of Sapporo. We leave the lodge and trek northwards towards the transportation vessel. Our tickets are purchased and we have brought everything we need to make the three hour journey to Asahiyama Animal Park. Cameras in hand, we board the highway vessel. Joining us on this voyage are some young, native women. They apply copious amounts of make-up (no doubt to blend in with their snowy environment) and giggle, as though they are small children. Lauren and I posit that this is in order to attract the men of the Japans. The island gentlemen must find this high-pitched noise instinctively alluring, and can hear the frequency from a long ways off. Sure enough, a male and his female companion join the ranks. He wears sunglasses inside the bus – perhaps it is a genetic eye condition, or perhaps he looked into an eclipse, thinking it was Amaterasu calling to him from the heavens. His hair is slicked back with seal blubber, and he is growing a weak beard. It seems queer to me that in such bitterly cold climates, the indigenous men seem incapable of growing thick beards or facial hair of any kind. Though, perhaps their skin is tougher than my own. The engine starts revving and our vessel gets on its way.

Lauren sleeps during most of the journey while Jian-wen attends to Kristin’s blistering headache. Perhaps she ate too many pickled sea creatures and is feeling the unfortunate consequences. The ride is long. I stare out the large, glass windows as the mountains and tall trees fly by. Memories unexpectedly emerge from my mind… playing in the snow as a child in Northern Virginia… trudging through the tundra of Western New York Territory… my first Oshõgatsu (Japanese New Years) atop the shrine of Yasaka Village (covered in snow, of course). It feels like a dream to be out in the middle of such grand nothingness.

We arrive at a rest stop and see a great crowd of visitors from every imaginable village in the Japans. They are in a frenzy; shopping, eating area delicacies (most of it iced cream, naturally), and taking daguerreotypes of snow sculptures outside. Wee ones play and frolic on the man-made sliding ground and elderly women simply take in the view and have their photos taken from inside a Japanese-made igloo.

Our first sighting of a snowbeast!

Another hour or so on the steel vessel and we find ourselves at last at the entrance of the expansive Asahiyama Animal Park. At last the opportunity to see indigenous beasts in their natural environments! Sadly for our group, the park is extremely crowded with more natives. Seems curious that they should be so eager to see their own wildlife. Though I suppose if I ever saw a Nörth American moose, elk or raccoon I would be equally delighted.

We decide to find provisions and hike up the mountainside to the very peak. The view is breathtaking – snowcapped, vast mountain ranges for all the eye can see. We find shelter and food inside one of the huts atop the mountain. Other visitors seem to have the same idea, but our timing is key and we find seating and nourishment in the form of hotdog, soup and rice.

After eating, we press through the building crowds and gallivant off to see the wildlife. Such variety of fauna, indeed! No explorer could have imagined how many indigenous species call Hokkaido their home. Chimpanzees, Hippopotamus, Rhinoceros, Wolves, Polar Bears, Seals, Lions, Tiger and even Giraffe! Whereas in my African travels I have many a time seen lions eat giraffe and giraffe eat leaves from tall trees, in the Nörth, the giraffe eat the very snow they live in! The lion simply paces around his paddock, growling at those who dare to peer inside. The hippos and rhinos seem a tad less active than those in my previous studies. They simply lie down atop the frozen wasteland. Perhaps their lack of hair prevents them from activity. Surely their natural fat stores keep them warm, however. I do not worry. On a side note, I instruct Lauren on the correct way to identify an ostrich. Emu, indeed!

After a strenuous three hours, we encounter something most curious indeed. A parade of small penguins makes its way through the crowds, ever so slowly. Many people take photographs (our troupe included, surely) and in a moment the penguins are gone. We are left with our growing frostbite and seek out another native delicacy – warm meron pan (bread that tastes of melon). Tea and meron pan in hand, we board our vessel once more and instantly fall asleep for the three hour journey back to our lodge.

And what do you suppose they're looking for?

Tiger tiger burning bright, he will eat some snow tonight.

Madonna and Child: Macaque

The March of the Penguins

Egads! A grasslands animal that eats snow naturally!

Kristin and Jian-wen decide to leave the North the next morning, much to my dismay. Lauren leaves our group to meet some friends from her homeland while Kristin, Jian-wen and I are left to our own endeavors. We wander over to Õdõri Park to see the famous ice and snow sculptures.

Such wonders are these in the darkness! The native Sapporians have set up lights in order to bring out the smallest details of their festive seasonal installations. Carvings in the snow of famous castles (Hamamatsu Castle), famous people (various athletes, animated characters), and even an international section where various nations have submitted their own artists to sculpt strange things from the frozen ground. My own nation has constructed something most repulsive and strange… a combination of Wisconsin Indigenous Mythology and Frank Lloyd Wright. Whereas Jian-wen’s nation, Singapore, has tendered a most delightful snow sculpture of an animal… or a person… it’s quite hard to tell, actually. The clear winner of the statues is that of Thailand, an eagle fighting a giant serpent. Certainly worthy of the gold medal! Even Lithuåniå has crafted something – a tall rodent leaning on what appears to be a mitten. The description tells us the folk story of a mouse who found a glove and shared it with the other creatures of the forest. The tale ends with a bear crawling inside, ripping the glove. The mitten must have been spun from most elastic yarn. Rather, that which only Lithuania can produce.

We finish off our busy day with fried noodles with meat and cabbage, purchased from a local vendor stand in the midst of the festival. The hot noodles slip down our throats and give us strength enough for the walk home. I bid farewell to my traveling companions as they retire for the evening.

In my accommodations, I fall asleep almost at once, only to be awoken by Lauren returning after a night of frivolity and intoxication. Lauren spends the evening in the bathroom, perched over the privy, as I drift off into a warm and deep sleep.

Journey to the North : Day 1

February 8th, 2009 (Sunday)

Kyoto --> Kobe --> Sapporo

Laüren and I braved the hördes of spatially unaware Kyoto-jin to take pleasure in COFFEE.
After replenishing our caffeine levels, we met fellows Kristin F and Jian-Wen C. and hopped the locomotive to Köbe city. The sky is eerily blue today.

Kobe as seen from the Port Liner locomotive
A swarthy crew, indeed. (Kristin, Jianwen, Rachel & Lauren)Posing in front of Kobe Port

The earthquake long ago has done wonders for this bustling metropolis. Its appearance resembles of a mixture of Seattle and Disneyland. We sit crouched next to a time-inappropriate Christmas tree, surrounded by our various parcels. The information sign says,

"ANA 403 Sapporo -- Weather Check".

Weather looks fine to me...

The frigid winds of the Nörth are somehow preventing the checking-in of our personal items! But we shall overcome this temporary hardship in time. Patience is of the utmost importance on this, our maiden voyage day! We can only hope the meager sandwiches will last us until we reach 27,000 feet and are rewarded with tea. *** We have made it to Chisöte Aérpört! The landing was most exciting and received applause from the natives. Fresh off the flying vessel, the four of us made our way by another locomotive to the Kita Hötel -- our primitive accommodations. Indoor plumbing and electric lights should suit us just fine.

Dressed in our warmest, we brave the bleak and frigid climate.

We dress in our furs and journey out into the Winterländ. It is night, and the darkness turns the wind into a piercing, penetrating gale. We seek shelter and warmth in the red-light district of Susükinø [薄野], where the indigenous tribes of Sapporo have staved off insanity by carving the shapes of animals into the ice. We observed actual sea-creatures (crabs, fish, etc) freshly encased in the blocks of ice.

frozen monstrosities!

Fearing our own capture and encasement, we seek shelter in an 'îzakåyä', where we meet a kindred explorer from the subcontinent of Néw Jërséy. Her name -- Geetika. She and her indigenous squaw, Naöko, regale us with tales of frivolity with the local peoples of Tokyö. We fend off the cold by downing exotic "cöçktaëls" and partaking in traditional dishes such as sashimi, kara-age, and pizzå. Laüren decides to befriend this explorer and continue alcoholic indulgence, whilst I (as the Japanese say) "cash in my chips" and head back to the inn for rest~ I'll need it for the frozen days ahead.

Post dinner! (Naoko, Gittika, Lauren, Rachel)